DAY SIXTEEN: Bodenaya – Samblismo
32km – 20 oC – clouded and sunny
Two pilgrims are priests from Argentina and they gave yesterday a mass in the local church. It was the first mass I attended on the camino as in most of the villages there is only one mass in a month. It was really special to attend this very intimate gathering.
How do I love this albergue, David played Snatam Kaur, and in the morning I cleansed myself with his Palo Santo (holy wood / incense).
The walk was so incredible beautiful, the climbing was not too bad as I was already on high altitude. The whole day I saw the most amazing views over the fields, valleys and hills. Meanwhile on both sides you heard cowbells in all different tunes, a real orchestra.
I remembered during the day the preach in the mass, which was about opening up your heart to the people around you. Such a beautiful intention and I took this in for the day, as I smiled away while I greeted people along the way. I walked for a little while with two older ladies who where also in the albergue. One is 73 years old, very fit, funny, energetic and a bit crazy 😀 and she asked me to sing, and so I did, so lovely to sing the songs I love for them.
Yesterday I talked with two colleagues as flight attendants. It’s the second time during the camino that I get very excited when I talk with people about being a flight attendant, is this my fate haha?! Please fasten your seatbelts as my day turns..
After a long break I decided to walk further and to camp for the night. After this stop it is almost 20km of just nature so I bought some provisions. I called with my dear Irish friend during the walk which was so nice but I got a bit strange feeling in my stomach. After almost two hours I found a place to put my tent, which was just in time because I was already walking like a zombie. I crashed down and tried to sleep, but after a while I started puking. I always eat kiwi’s with the skin, yes I do.. But this time I didn’t wash them so probably I got food poison. After puking it’s all fine, until it start coming up again, please send me some strength!
DAY SEVENTEEN: Samblismo – Berducedo
27km – 22oC – clouded, rain and sunny
Oh my God, I puked the whole evening and got diarrhea and fever. Everytime my stomach was getting troubled I got so weak that I barely could put my head outside the tent to puke. It was awful and as some of you know I can be very expressive, oh and I was expressing my hurt with so much sounds, it was so good that I was alone in my tent in a field 😂. The ground was again very dry and hard so I woke around every hour to change my position because my pelvis bones where already hurting allot from carrying my backpack.
Around 3 in the morning I went out my tent to piss which was dreadful but then I looked up to the sky.. I never saw so much stars and the milky way, I stood there for quite a while and didn’t felt cold anymore. I saw the belt of Orion and the Big Dipper right above me, such a magical treat after such a shitty evening.
In the morning I felt much better, I had two options, walk back a few km and rest or walk 27km to the next albergue. I was convinced that I could make this walk haha. Oh my lord, it was pure climbing into the mountains. I didn’t eat yesterday so I was drained of energy and dried out from diarrhea and puking. And today it was very hard to eat and drink, so fuck.. this was not a very healthy choice, walking with my 15kg backpack.
I walked mostly in the clouds which was quite magical, especially because there where wild horses appearing out the fog along the whole way.
I had to take so many breaks to catch up with my energy, insane, mostly just crashing down in the wet grass to rest. And how much I yesterday enjoyed the intention of opening up to other people, today I hated most of them. I just wanted them to fucking shut up, asking me to make pictures and so on. So I just shouted into the mountains and made some sheep sounds when I passed pilgrims 🐑.
After 24km of torture I arrived at a bar, drank a coffee with a Irish and Russian guy. The coffee made me feel alive and kicking again and the last 3km of walking was very nice talking about lovely Ireland 🍀. Crashing down now, thanks everyone for the supporting messages ❤
DAY EIGHTEEN: Berducedo – Castro
25km – 23oC – clouded, sunny and hot
I woke up really well and fit. After a few km walking I saw a billboard at a home with breakfast for donation, together with a German guy I entered the kitchen of a normal family home where we where being served coffee, toast and marmalade. It was so sweet and other pilgrims joined as well. So after the breakfast you put your donation anonymously in a box outside the front door. So so special, I so love the camino style.
The next part of the walk was a bit climbing but we where still on such high altitude, you could see over all the valleys and mountains, which where this morning completely covered by clouds. It was such a magical sight. It was as I was walking on another world on a cloud. I imagined that I died yesterday on the mountain and that I was in heaven, walking a never ending camino haha. The atmosphere was so radiant and buzzing… I really could walk there till the end of time 🙌.
After this it went down, descending for a long period, walking through the clouds, as the atmosphere became more dense, more thick and grounded. This reminded me of some utterly wicked lucid fever dreams I had the day before yesterday 😝.
My health and strength is totally back on track. I pay homage to colloidal silver for helping curing the virus, Aquarius drink for getting my sugar and minerals back on track, and my awesome network of friends and family for their support. It’s really amazing that I’ve been patched up so quickly. I am so proud of my body and all my efforts in the last 7 years with my personal transformation. As I have lost in the last 7 years 4 times the weight of my backpack, which weights 15kg. When I would walk the stairs I was already sweating and out of breath, but here I am 🔥
The last part of the day I walked again with Danny, the Irish guy. We had really nice and interesting chats, as we where getting to know each other more. It really filled my need for connection and a sense of friendship. This evening the priests gave another mass, this time out in the fields and in the sun ✌
DAY NINETEEN: Castro – A Fonsagrada
21km – 24oC – sunny and hot
After a really good breakfast I walked into the dense fog. It was magical how quickly the sun burned away the thick fog, after she appeared above the mountain. The first part of the walk was in nature and with quite some climbing again. I feel so fortunate to carry a stick to support me during both climbing and descending. It is almost two weeks ago that I found my stick. Even though I love to walk with my hands free, I was searching for a stick because I wanted to walk at night with the full moon. In my last camino this was a very beautiful experience but a stick was very essential. In the rural parts, some people let their guardian dogs lose at night so I was a few times almost bitten if it weren’t for the stick I carried. In the end I haven’t been walking at night but I kept the stick, and I have been making it mine. I have a special thing with stick carving, as a child, but last year I was also introduced to this as an masculine practice. I have written a blog about this on my website.
Today was really hot, as lizards and a little snake crawled away as I set foot. At the top of the mountain I left the province of Asturias and entered Galicia. I so much enjoyed Asturias, but I feel so excited to be back in Galicia. Two years ago, after walking 700 km in dry hot Spain, I entered this green, magical, humid land. The Ireland of Spain, Galicia then revived my longing to go to Ireland.. 😁
In Galicia the camino shell is pointing to the other direction as in Asturias, which probably will take me some time to get used to, as I have been questioning the direction of the shell so many times 😊. It was a short and easy walk, I’ve been brainstorming on so so many ideas, which was really nice. I have spent my day alone, I cooked myself for the first time a proper meal, after living mainly on bread, asparagus and sardines. Now I’m off to the local church as the pilgrim priests are going to celebrate mass again 🙌
DAY TWENTY: A Fonsagrada – Castroverde
33km – 20 oC – clouded and sun
“Lord God, help these pilgrims on their way to Compostela. Guide their footsteps with your kindness. May your shadow protect them during the day, and the light of your eyes shine on them by night “. We got yesterday another pilgrims blessing 🙌.
Ascending, descending.l, what’s new?! This is just another day on the primitivo! What a shitty day, I wasn’t feeling it at ALL. The albergue yesterday was way to fancy and it seems that there are new pilgrims joining the way, with their fucking cranky and unfriendly faces. Ohoh, my jackal has tasted blood today 👹.
I read something yesterday evening which triggered allot of judgements in me, both external and internal. Before I knew it I was making rounds in my self-doubting rollercoaster. For almost 20km I was literally looking downwards, not enjoying the beauty around me and I felt tense and dizzy. I was doubting the choices I made in the last year, and noticed myself already pushing to get my ‘act together’. It’s so funny that this voice is one which I identify as my father’s combined with my loyalty to my parents and their lifestyle. Stop fantasizing, air cycling, as my dad says haha.
I felt some sadness but couldn’t reach it. I tried to just feel into it, but it was if there was a lid on it. Mumford and son’s helped me with getting that lid off!! It has been a few days since I’ve listened to music and I was directly hit by it. While tears ran down my face, I sang along loudly. It’s the first time this camino that I’ve been crying from sadness, what a relief, I so cherish the freedom to express both my joy and sadness. After this release my heart went open, and I felt so grateful for all the choices I’ve been making, allowing myself to quit doing things that don’t serve me anymore, and holy shit, allowing myself to experience this amazing adventure, ongoing since the beginning of this year, hooray!
With this new energy I decided to walk to an albergue 8 km further than I thought I’d do. Only two days left on the primitivo before we join the French.